counter-culture cultural dining

In a nation where the national dish is the kebab, surviving as a dedicated vegetarian has been a challenge. Faced with about one to none options at many restaurants and quizzical looks from Turks who ask questions like, " Vegetarian? That means you eat chicken and fish, right?"; I've found myself a strange enigma in Istanbul. However, I'm still going strong with a record of just one slip in over a month. There was nothing I could really do about that shred of chicken in my soup the other night. It's been a make or break experience, and through being here I've realized how ingrained vegetarianism has become as a part of my lifestyle. I think I've ceased to see meat as food because no matter how dismal my meals may be, I still go for that peynirli pide (flat bread with melted cheese) for the third time that week.
However, I don't want to criticized too much, because Turkey has a cornucopia of fresh, delicious, mostly organic produce. The tomatoes are ripe, juicy, and flavorful. The grapes are inexpensive and bursting with goodness. Eggplant, squash, peaches, nectarines, bananas and more are readily available from beautifully arranged fruit stands. So when I'm cooking my own food(which hasn't happened much recently) I can eat really well. It's just eating out that's often a less than inspiring experience. However, last Saturday, I found my paradise hidden in the winding backstreets of Beyoğlu, one of Istanbul's hippest neighborhoods.
A little haven of healthy eating, Parsifalde Vejetaryen Resteran offers orgasmic vegetarian and vegan meals in a cozy atmosphere. The long narrow room is painted yellow and the walls are hung with mostly French artwork. Shelves laden with glass bottles and a well stocked bar in the back create a homey feel. But the real stand out of the restaurant was the incredible, fresh, creative dishes. I went with the one other vegetarian exchange student and few other veg friendly students. We all ordered different meals including dolma(stuffed grape leaves), white lasagna, potato pastry, and pasta with feta and walnuts, and then shared them around like a bunch hippie commune members. Every dish was made more delicious by conversation with open, generous friends. I know it sounds silly to say, but it was one of the most home-like experiences I've had in Turkey. It reminded me of hours spent at The Other Side Cafe, ordering vegetarian and raw food while talking about everything and anything with good friends who love honest conversation and good food.