Wandering out of Istanbul

Last weekend, I went to Bulgaria and Romania for the weekend. I mean, why not? For just about $80 you can get a rail pass that gives you five days of travel in the Balkans. So me and two other exchangers packed up our backpacks and hopped on an overnight train to Plovdiv, Bulgaria. To be honest, I was really looking forward to the Romania part of the trip and considered the one night we were planning on spending in Bulgaria as a quick sidenote to the journey. Unexpectedly, through a misinformed hostel manager and our own lack of planning, it was difficult to get out of Bulgaria. By the end of the trip, we'd become convinced that perhaps a there'd been some sort of enchantment placed on us to keep us out of Romania and as far away from Dracula as possible.
However, Bulgaria, or at the two towns we visited were a real treat. I was expecting the country to be one big, post-Soviet concrete wasteland. Instead, we discovered beautiful countryside, historic and artistic centers, delicious food, and really really nice people. Our first stop was Plovdiv. The blast of cold air and concrete train station didn't exactly give me a good first impressions, but after getting directions, we headed to the historic old town to find our hostel. The historic center of Plovdiv consists of narrow, winding cobblestone streets, lovely wooden houses, art galleries, antique shops, and is dotted with old churches and and a few Roman ruins including an amphitheater. We spent our time in Plovdiv exploring the old town, shopping for lovely glazed pottery, and feasting on delicious meals cooked in earthenware pots. It also didn't take us long to discover that beer in Bulgaria is cheaper than water.
The next day when we inquired about train times to Bucharest, our host informed us that we'd have to wait until the next day to get out of Bulgaria and that the only way to catch the train was to take a bus three hours away to a small town and get the train from there. Lucky for us, he knew a sister hostel there and would be happy to make reservations for us. We consented and few hours later, we found ourselves on a stomach-curdling ride through precarious mountain roads. More than once I though our driver was going to plunge our minibus into the depths. To our frustration, upon arrival we discovered that there was an overnight train to Bucharest, which we decided we would try to make, but our new hosts persuaded us that we would miss the best Bulgarian town if we left. We stayed. The town was lovely and the old fortress was impressive, but the overpriced tour of surrounding sites we were coerced into taking wasn't so impressive. Let's just that it was a relief when were finally waiting for our train to Romania that evening. However, we met with near disaster when we got on the wrong train. We didn't realize until after the train had left the station that we were being transported back to Plovdiv! At this point, I was ready to leap of the moving train to avoid being trapped in Bulgaria for one more night. This wasn't necessary though, because for some reason the train reversed direction and let us off at the station and we managed to get on the right train.
Romania was rushed and were disappointed time and time again by castles, museums, and churches being closed for various reasons. We didn't even get to visit Dracula's castle or Ceauşescu's grave. Our hostel was called the Funky Chicken but should have been called the Grumpy Chicken in reference the manager who didn't even say goodbye to us when we left. Not say Romania didn't have potential. I'd really like to go someday and explore Transylvania which seemed lovely judging by the one afternoon we spent in Braşov and Bran. To cap off the trip, we made our train back to Istanbul by literally 30 seconds.
So I've learned this past weekend that I really should be a little more organized when I travel, that I should enjoy where I am and not rush ahead to the next destination, and when in doubt of what to cook it's always a good idea to throw some veggies and cheese in a clay pot and bake. Also, next time you're in Veliko Tarnova buy some art from the friendly, bearded old man who sits by the old fortress making pen and ink drawings

counter-culture cultural dining

In a nation where the national dish is the kebab, surviving as a dedicated vegetarian has been a challenge. Faced with about one to none options at many restaurants and quizzical looks from Turks who ask questions like, " Vegetarian? That means you eat chicken and fish, right?"; I've found myself a strange enigma in Istanbul. However, I'm still going strong with a record of just one slip in over a month. There was nothing I could really do about that shred of chicken in my soup the other night. It's been a make or break experience, and through being here I've realized how ingrained vegetarianism has become as a part of my lifestyle. I think I've ceased to see meat as food because no matter how dismal my meals may be, I still go for that peynirli pide (flat bread with melted cheese) for the third time that week.
However, I don't want to criticized too much, because Turkey has a cornucopia of fresh, delicious, mostly organic produce. The tomatoes are ripe, juicy, and flavorful. The grapes are inexpensive and bursting with goodness. Eggplant, squash, peaches, nectarines, bananas and more are readily available from beautifully arranged fruit stands. So when I'm cooking my own food(which hasn't happened much recently) I can eat really well. It's just eating out that's often a less than inspiring experience. However, last Saturday, I found my paradise hidden in the winding backstreets of Beyoğlu, one of Istanbul's hippest neighborhoods.
A little haven of healthy eating, Parsifalde Vejetaryen Resteran offers orgasmic vegetarian and vegan meals in a cozy atmosphere. The long narrow room is painted yellow and the walls are hung with mostly French artwork. Shelves laden with glass bottles and a well stocked bar in the back create a homey feel. But the real stand out of the restaurant was the incredible, fresh, creative dishes. I went with the one other vegetarian exchange student and few other veg friendly students. We all ordered different meals including dolma(stuffed grape leaves), white lasagna, potato pastry, and pasta with feta and walnuts, and then shared them around like a bunch hippie commune members. Every dish was made more delicious by conversation with open, generous friends. I know it sounds silly to say, but it was one of the most home-like experiences I've had in Turkey. It reminded me of hours spent at The Other Side Cafe, ordering vegetarian and raw food while talking about everything and anything with good friends who love honest conversation and good food.

Boğazici University

I am spending the semester at Boğazici University which is located in the affluent Istanbul suburb of Etiler. I live in its supposedly premiere dorm that is the "top choice of graduate and exchange students". But too me, with its closet like rooms, stark white walls, strict visitor rules, and unfriendly manager, it feels more like a prison or a hospital. However, the lively exchange students that live here and the cheap çay in the basement cafe make up for the lack of atmosphere. Since classes haven't started yet, there are usually daily excursions to Sultanahmet (the old city), Taksim (hip shopping and bars) and anywhere else that will keep us occupied during this strange limbo between registration and the start of courses.
Although Boğizici is one of Turkey's best universities, accomplishing a basic task like registering for courses requires a lot of effort because of a bureaucratic, disorganized administration. I was surprised when I learned that I had a four day block to register for my classes, which seem like a lot of time for me. However, when I realized that I was faced with a multitude of time conflicts, blocked classes, and a clogged on-line registration system, I wondered why we weren't given more time! Finally, after a marathon of obtaining approval for classes, e-mailing back in forth to the administration here and at home to make sure courses will count for credit, and maneuvering my schedule to fit in as many Middle East/Turkey focused classes as I could, I finally have timetable of classes that I think will work out quite nicely. I'm taking a smattering of classes including poly-sci courses, Turkish language, and painting.
After such a stressful process I'm looking forward to finally starting classes on Monday. I'm anticipating the walk to South Campus that leads past stunning views of the Bosporus and through tree lined pathways to a lovely quad lined with old stone buildings. I have to admit it still hasn't really sunk into my consciousness that I really am studying here. Although there are all the normal things a student neighborhood has like ATMs, grocery stores, and cafes, it still feels exotic to me!

Ramazan

Fives times a day, a haunting call echoes across the city, calling the Muslim faithful to pray. The beautiful Arabic chant confirms to me that I am truly in a different land. This month is Ramazan, so the official moment of of sundown is also called out so all who area fasting know they can partake in food and drink that they have denied themselves since sunrise. Last night I was in Sultanahmet for sunset. We sat in a park looking out across the Blue Mosque. And although I wasn't fasting, I still felt a tinge of the anticipation that everyone surrounding me must have felt. As the call approached, families sitting together on park benches began opening grocery bags, taking out bread, cheese, and bottled juices. A women in a Burqua drifted through the crowd selling prayer beads. Impatience and anticipation hung thick in the air. Finally clear voices rang out from every mosque in the city, signaling the end of fasting for the day. Turks surrounding us joyfully bit into sandwiches, sipped on water, and lit up cigarettes. Lights strung between the minarets of the Blue Mosque glowed with a Ramazan greeting. The second day of fasting was completed. I could not help but admire the strict observation and dedication of faithful Muslims during Ramazan. It is a difficult feat, made easier by coming together as a community. Nothing in Turkey is done alone which makes for a huge part of this country's beauty and charm.

First Impressions

I have been in Turkey for 7 days. Two nights at the Orient Hostel in boisterous neighborhood of Sultanahamet, home to the Aya Sophia, Blue Mosque and countless other intoxicating sights. On the morning of my second full day, I caught a 7 am ferry down the coast, en route to soak up Troy, the Gallipoli Battlefields, and the ruins of Ephesus.I spent five days touring the Aegean Coast, living on buses and in hostels. Instead of bogging you down with details, I thought I would just briefly recount a few aspects of Turkey that stuck me as particularly pleasant, beautiful, and unsettling (at least for a woman traveling alone)during the past week.

Pleasant:

• fresh warm bread
• ferry rides across the Bosporus
• chatting with fellow backpackers
• Çay with a cube of sugar served in a curvy glass
• The breeze from the Agean Sea
• Walking along the Çannekale harbour
• Friendly Turks
• wild tabby kittens
  

Beautiful:

• the view of the Bosporus from my campus at night
  
• the golden domes of the Aya Sophia
• the sun setting over the Aegean sea
• the Great Theatre at Ephesus
• scarves in the Grand Bizarre
• the Selcuk fountain set in front of an ancient Roman aqueduct
• the view from the ANZAC memorial on the Gallipoli peninsula
  

Unsettling:

• hordes of people accosting travelers at the bus station to pursuade you to stay in their hostel
  
• dirty toilets of the squatting variety
  
• being alone
• nearly missing the ferry
• not speaking Turkish